The early 20th century boom and bust
As the 20th century dawned, Franz Josef Glacier became a destination for adventurous travellers from around the world. Unlike today's relatively quick journey, early tourists would embark on a challenging trek that could take over 36 hours from Ōtautahi Christchurch. Maud Moreland, a traveller in 1907, described the trail as "like few others in the world. At times it was there; at times it was not. The swamps, or the sea, or the rivers had taken it; then it would reappear, having left us for miles at a time," reflecting the harsh yet captivating beauty of the West Coast.
Despite the rugged conditions, the region's allure continued to draw visitors, thanks in part to the kindness and resilience of the local communities. These early tourists were not deterred by the challenges, and the adventure truly began the moment they set foot on the West Coast's wild landscapes.
Guiding through adversity: The story of Franz Josef Glacier Guides
The history of glacier guiding in Franz Josef is marked by resilience and adaptation. Throughout the years, the guiding industry faced numerous challenges, from the Great Depression to global conflicts. Natural obstacles also played a role, with periods of glacier recession making access difficult.
In the early 1990s, Mark Mellsop purchased the guiding concession and navigated the business through significant changes. He witnessed the glacier's rapid advance in 1999, a phenomenon that presented unique challenges but also opportunities for growth. Under his leadership, the business evolved, particularly after Ngāi Tahu took over in the mid-2000s, bringing new investments and safety improvements.
Modern-day guiding: Innovation and adaptation
In 2012, as the glacier began to rapidly recede, the decision was made to shift from traditional walking tours to helicopter access, allowing manuhiri to explore the glacier's higher, safer areas. This innovation continued until 2020 when the Covid-19 pandemic forced the closure of New Zealand's borders and halted guiding activities.
However, the story didn’t end there. Thanks to the passionate efforts of former managers Craig Buckland and Jon Tyler, along with the support of local iwi Makaawhio, the business was revived. Today, Franz Josef Glacier Guides continues to adapt, offering unique experiences that blend modern safety practices with the rugged beauty of the glacier.
Visiting Franz Josef Glacier today
For today's adventurers, visiting Franz Josef Glacier offers a different yet equally thrilling experience compared to the early 1900s. Helicopters transport visitors to 1,300 meters, where tours begin amidst the breathtaking icy terrain. The guides, equipped with modern safety gear, lead the way through the glacier's stunning features.
The shoulder season, from April to June, is an ideal time to visit, with cooler, more stable weather and fewer clouds to hinder helicopter flights. The journey may be easier today, but the sense of awe and wonder remains unchanged.
Looking forward, Franz Josef Glacier Guides is committed to continuing its legacy of resilience and innovation, ensuring that this natural wonder remains a must-see destination for generations to come.
Check out our experiences and how you can visit the glacier.